![]() ![]() The four holes to the left of the jig strips are drilled so that the positioning jig can be set at an initial 75mm in from the end of the rod and then at 150mm for each successive hole. The jig is positioned on the drill table first by using a 10mm drill into the centre hole. On the drill table beside the jig is a positioning tool made up with two 5mm rods on the outside with an old 4.2mm drill in the centre. This is the jig I made up from a 5mm piece of steel with two strips made up 3 pieces each of 5mm steel bolted together to make the strips 15mm high. If you have access to a small lathe, you will find it useful for turning small pins for your drilling jig.Īlthough it may be possible to do the next operation without a jig, making one is well worth the time and effort to ensure accurate drilling.A set of hex (Allen) keys - preferably ball-ended.A quantity of M5 x 25mm, countersunk, socket (allen) ended bolts to suit length of rails.A quantity of M5 x 10mm, countersunk, socket (allen) ended bolts to suit length of rails. ![]() 4.2mm, 5mm and 10mm (for countersinking) drill bits.If this is not available, there are many different lengths of cheap, 'I' sectioned spirit levels up to 1800mm (or more) length and with milled edges available on eBay. I used dividing strips from demountable office partitions that I got from my local junk yard. 2 x Aluminium 'I' section support rails.2 x 25mm x 5mm, bright steel bar to same length as steel rod.(sufficient to provide support at 150mm intervals along whole length of rail. 12.5mm x 8mm electrical stand-off spacers.2 x 16mm, bright steel rod cut to required length or other smooth finished 16mm steel bar that can be bored and threaded with a hand tap.The following tools and parts will be required for this part of the project: ![]()
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